Tamco's HR- Reducers, the best reducers money can buy
Tamco's Reducers are AFFORDABLE, but quality is NOT LOST. We use ONLY “urethane grade solvents.” in all our products. Only big time companies do this - most generics DO NOT
HR-1360 Fast is a cold climate solvent only, mainly for basecoats where catalysts are not used. It can be used in our 2K Primers, and Colors however, as they are all certified urethane grade solvents. Also great for cleanup- because 50% of the ingrediants is acetone. Low VOC, and super cleaning abilities.
HR-1370- Standard Medium Reducer. Use from 75-95 degrees depending on surface size to keep wet.
HR-1380- Slow Reducer. Use only above 85 degrees, up to 95 degrees.
HR- 1390- is xtra slow reducer, for temperatures over 95%! However 2K paints are not recommended to be sprayed over 95 degrees!
Before using any Tamco products be sure to read all safety warnings and MSDS. Please read all directions carefully.
For professional use only by trained painters. Not for sale or use by the general public.
Understanding Our Clears:
In today’s world, we are confronted with terms that try to trick us to buy something. For example “NO ADDED SUGAR” simply means that they used high naturally occurring sugars that are often higher in sugar and calories thiamin if they simply added sugar in the first place. REDUCED FAT-- Again there is no legal definition of this. If a product has had fat removed it will often have something added, for example sugar and thickening agents. FRESH, PURE OR NATURAL Consumers should be wary because such marketing terms are not defined in law and, if used inappropriately, can confuse and mislead.
This same use of terms by paint companies are used to fool the masses into “junk science” and downright lies. For example:
Polyurethane: Some companies say that their clears and paints are superior because it is a polyurethane, not just a urethane. “poly” means more than one, and “urethane” means A synthetic crystalline compound, CO(NH2)OC2H5
Therefore a “polyurethane” is a class of synthetic materials made by copolymerizing an isocyanate and a polyhydric resin. Simply put, any two part urethane IS A POLYURETHANE!
Now what you may not know there are three basic types of polyurethanes used in the paint business. They are:
Enamel polyurethanes: Enamel resins cross-linked with a polyisocyanate (usually an IPDI polyisocyanate - a less durable form) which is usually the cheapest and less desirable of all polyurethanes. Usually when people boast that their products are polyurethanes, they are simply cheap enamels crosslinked with a hardener and are NOT all that durable. BEWARE
Acrylic polyurethanes: Very durable coatings, the backbone of the OEM car industry. 100% acrylic polyurethanes have high gloss, and very high gloss retention when exposed to the sun’s UV. They will stay shiny for many years. They have a good to excellent chemical resistance as well. There are many forms of acrylic resins. Some with mediocre long term durability, and some with outstanding 20 plus year durability.
Linear polyester polyurethanes: The most durable coatings for chemical resistance. VERY HIGH initial gloss, but will loose much of that gloss over a ten year period. The outstanding chemical resistance is why this type of paint is usually used on large boats and airplanes. The down side of this product is that it cures VERY SLOWLY and hence most would not use these products in the car refinish process.
BLENDS: Beware! Many clears and paints on the market are actually blends of enamel resins and acrylic resins. This is done for two reasons. One is ease of application (enamels are easier to paint, keep a beautiful “wet edge” and has outstanding initial gloss (upward to 99%!) However, Tamco does NOT blend our clears with enamels. We use 100% acrylic resins. Why? When enamels are blended into the clear, all of the advantages of initial gloss, are lost within 1 year! They do not stand up to UV sun radiation much.
Proper additive package: Most every paint companies know which resins are out there. The real “secret” to this industry is in the formulation of those resins. In the formula of any clear there will be 2 UV’s (if they are good!), 3-5 solvents (for an even evaporation rate), tin additives (to make the paint cure better and quicker) and leveling, or flow agents. These are often heavily guarded secrets in any paint formulations. Tamco after years of testing and experience uses an array of flow agents and other additives. Some are the same used by everyone, others are those we have discovered over years of testing different product additives. OUR CLEARS lay down like glass! That is a nature of the resins we use (we often blend many acrylic resins in just one clear for many different attributes), and the flow additives we have chosen! Most of our customers are amazed with the look of our clears! That’s in the additives! Now some of our spot and repair clears are meant to duplicate factory orange peel (like our HC7600, HC7642 and HC2000), but our glamor clears stand in a league by themselves.
HELP LINE: When you call us - you get us very quickly, and you will talk with someone who knows their products. This is a family run business and everyone has many years of experience. Most of the time you will talk with the owner Tammy Miller. 1-800-678-1533, rings to her cell. She has been making paint with her dad since she was a child! Bob Barney (her father) has been in the paint business since 1979 and has manufactured and sold marine paints (topside and bottom paint), Industrial finishes and auto refinish paints. You can trust our experience. Tammy’s husband Sean Miller, is our head tech man. He also runs the paint plant. He has many years of painting experience, from production auto repairs to custom artwork. Sean has painted about every product on the market. He knows what paints do, and how to correct problems that arise.
Amerflint II -- Duraflint II --- and No Wax Clears: PRO: Easy to apply - HIGHEST possible gloss (98-99%) LONGEST GLOSS retention (only 3% in 5 years). I have made this product for 30 years - I have cars in Florida painted in the 80’s, that still look GREAT! For many years, all Norfolk Southern locomotives used this product! John Deere (at the factory) uses this resin, modified by Sherwin Williams with their other resins.
CON: Does Not buff well at all, unless you really know what you are doing. If you aren't going to buff- these are great clears. PLUS or MINUS: SLOW DRYING
HC-2104 High Solids Euro Clear (Compare to Spies). PRO: Very High gloss (97-98). Less than a 2% loss of gloss per year. Easily a 7-10 year “real life” coating. Very Easy to buff. Can adjust dry times with 3 different temp hardeners (fast med slow). Great Euro look.
CONS: (which is a plus for very experienced painters) VERY HIGH SOLIDS. Do it yourselfers often have problems with these High Solids clears
HC-2100 (EURO CLEAR):- Same product as above- 20% LOWER SOLIDS. All the pluses of 2104, without any cons. Best selling clear we have.. This is also selling as our COLORMAX 2:1 Euro Clear
HC-2020 HC2021 HC2002 - Great clears ONLY for those used to applying PPG high solids clears!
HC4100 - This is basically HC-2100, slightly higher solids at a 4:1 ratio. Our second best selling clears. Easy to apply, very high gloss and gloss retention
Our 2000, HC-7600, HC7642 and other 4:1 Clears (including the 4:1 Colormax 2000). PROS: Easy to apply, 94-95% gloss. Uses a resin system that is almost impossible to fail (in fact 85% of all auto clears are based on this resin). Can be made to dry VERY FAST (for spot repairs).. 3 different temp hardeners (fast med slow)-- the same hardeners that are used in the HC-2100 Euro Clears! These are very popular clears. 100% acrylic urethane- NO ENAMELS added (like most lower cost clears- that looks great when sprayed but dies by 20% in 2 years!) Our clears in this group looks great for 5-7 years (with a 2-3% loss of gloss per year in Florida testing. BUFFS GREAT!
CONS: a bit lower gloss (95%) vests the other clears, but if buffed has the same gloss as our other clears! Needs more coats (lower solids except for the HC7642) and use a less durable resin than our premium clears. These products are meant to be used for production clears that will have a good long life and good gloss retention!
ALL OF OUR CLEARS have the MAX of 2 UV's...!!!!!!!!!!We do not leave UV out of our less expensive clears…. Many companies DO!
All of our clears use the very expensive BLENDED HARDENERS. (HDT, HDB and IPDI resins) for long life, max. durability and EZ Buffing! Almost nobody does this anymore!!! We still do. See page 6 in this link on why blended hardeners are important: http://www.voxtar.perstorp.com/upload/pers0020_tolonate_eng_lowres.pdf but not used much anymore by most modern paint companies! We blend all three! HDB, HDT, AND IPDI!
We use ONLY “urethane grade solvents.” in all our products. Only big time companies do this - most generics DO NOT
Here is the recommendation from Rhodia Tolonate on water:
Water content of the solvent(s) and impurities
reacting with NCO
Like all isocyanates, Tolonate reacts with water. It is therefore essential to use solvents with a water content lower than 500 ppm (preferably lower than 300 ppm), which are referred to as ”urethane grade solvents.” purities likely to react with NCO groups, such as butanol and/or acetic acid in butyl acetate. (Our solvents we buy are under 150 ppm! That’s adds 25% to our cost! Even our reducers use these high grade solvents!) See page 7 of link above
WE DO NOT CUT CORNERS! Frankly, our clears should sell for more than the PPG’s or Glasruit! We make smaller batches and everything is carefully measured, unlike industrial batches of 1,000’s of gallons. Our scales measure to the gram. This equals consistency.
Tamco makes the finest quality primers money can buy. Again, we use the best ingredients. Our DTM 2K urethane primers do not use industrial enamels as others do. We use 100% acrylic polyols (same as what we use in our clears). Our resins are DIRECT TO METAL resins. Read the instructions on other primers. They most likely want you to use metal preps BEFORE applying the primer. Why? It’s because they do not use the more expensive direct to metal resins. WE DO! Our HP5310, can be directly applied over sanded steel, galvanize, and even most aluminums -- try that with the others!
We also use both clay, and talc. Most modern primers to do blend the two powders. We do. This gives you are a little harder to sand primer initially - BUT WILL NOT DRAW SAND SCRATCHES in 90 days! Our primers have NO EQUAL in the market. (65% solids in the HC-5310). Our Primers DO NOT SHRINK!
Our HP5311 Black 2K acrylic primer is not only direct to metal BUT DIRECT TO RUST.
We make the most unique epoxy primer made! Only Boeing aircraft uses the epoxy resin that we use in our DIRECT TO ANYTHING (DTA) epoxy! This product sticks virtually to any surface including stainless steel and glass! Most amazingly, unlike any other epoxy on the market, you can paint over the product (when used as a sealer) WET ON WET! Read the other epoxies. They all want to see a minimum of 2-4 hours before topcoating. Our DTA epoxy can be used as a sealer or primer, and for large jobs, can be topcoated up to 7 days without sanding! This is an excellent choice for large fleets, or car restoration shops.
We also make moisture cure 1K polyurethane primers as well. These products are bullet proof! They do not fail in the worse environments.
Check us out - TRY OUR PRODUCTS and you will be truly amazed how far your money will go for the best products crafted in America!
What our customers are saying!
WHOLE KIT COSTS LESS THAN A QUART OF IMRON ACTIVATOR.
A Eaton wrote...
Amazing Company, Customer service is A+, GREAT PRODUCT! Wish i could write more!
the best product, the best price, and the best people to deal with.
These products are just the best..Very impressed..
Tamco's HC-7600 is a nice off brand product. works just like dupont
name is ron from plymouth ma you sold me a pw7 single stage kit and i
just wanted to tell you how nice a product you have. i just did all my
Sam B wrote...
Best Primer I have ever used- and I have used them all! No shrinkage or dieback whatsoever. No need to ever seal.
Really nice primer with high solids...sands well and fills nice. I'll be buying much more of it!
is really one of the best primer's I have ever used. And I have
used them all in my long time profession! The best is the savings!!